Wednesday, January 18, 2017

Posh Frock WIP

The inspiration...
Picture from Pinterest
The pattern.
The making of the muslin.
The first fit.
This is the computer generated pattern.
Not too bad at all.
If I wanted a simple, slightly fitted dress this would be fine, as is.
After a lot of work by Zara...
Pinning, basting, stitching, marking.
Fitting the pattern to my wonky old bod.
Then unpicking it all to use it as a pattern.
Check out the different heights of those darts!
And those seriously weird bust darts!
The silk satin frays when you breathe on it so I am cutting each piece, one at a time, the silk and lace as one.
I then baste all the edges together and finish with overlocking them.
V e r y slowly as it stretches.
I marked the darts with a tracing wheel and then went over them with my flash Harry pen (that disappears when heat is applied) from The Drapery.
These are proving a wee bit fiddly so I am basting them first and then stitching once I am happy.

It is all coming along nicely.

xx N

Friday, January 6, 2017

Lisette B6296 Pyjamas

Elsa came a cropper ice skating, several years back. She badly sprained her ankle and even with a lot of physio, special shoes and strapping it was impacting her life.
So, she had surgery to remove the scar tissue.
Elsa thought some new pyjamas to take to hospital would be nice.
The Twins have been pinning satin pjs, on Pinterest, for a few months.
Horrid stuff to sew with but they do look smart.
Can you see my mistake?
I sewed these up very late at night. I did follow the instructions but the diagram showed the piping sewn one side of the front panel not both. I remember thinking 'Okay, a natty Liesl way of applying piping' and went with it.
I had sewn, trimmed and top stitched before I realised that I needed piping on both sides!
I was so cross at my self!
The bottoms have a lot of detail.
Pockets and cuffs as well as a back yoke which makes altering through multiple sizes a lot easier too.
I used a light interfacing in the cuffs.
I attached my waist band from the inside, topstitching from the outside to cover the raw edges. 
I drafted the shorts with a size 10 waist through to a size 14 hip.
This gave Elsa a nice fit without excessive bagginess.
If things don't fit how they like they just don't get worn.
The bottoms sit slightly above the hips.
The top is a straight size 10.
Elsa measures a 10 and has normal to broad shoulders and this is still quite over sized on her.
I can get this top done up but would need to remove some width from the shoulder cap as it pulls on me.
If you are particular about your pjs I would suggest making a top up out of practice fabric to make sure it works for you.
As for the sewing, it is a good pattern, goes together nicely and, for a Big 4, quite good instructions.
My mistake was my mistake.
The top took me a solid 6 hours to sew, the bottoms 2 with an hour cutting time.
The shifty, slippery fabric would have added to that time.
The buttons are so cute!
Stylised bunny heads in a faux bone I picked up at Eliza's of Sunshine.
The top slips on and off with out undoing them. 
~Elsa's Verdict~
Theres not much to say but 'Hello, aren't they awesome'?
 But we all know that question doesn't need answering. I got changed into these after my surgery not only are they comfortable and silky they look amazing. Even the nurse, that helped me, made several comments about them. Although he doesn't look too impressed in the photo, Coco loves snuggling up to them. Thanks again Mum, they're awesome, definitely want many more made. 

I guess I will be making more...
xx N

Tuesday, January 3, 2017

Vado Jeans

First post for the year.
Vado skinny jeans
That would be my sixth use of this pattern.
Time to put it away, for now.
Heavy denim with a hint of spandex from Spotlight, $15/m.
Lots of top stitching, lots of tummy room.
Droopy bum lifting pocket placement.
~My Verdict~
Very happy with my Vado's. I think the pattern will be quite easy to alter, as well, if my weight fluctuates.
I am very tempted to try the Boyfriend jeans but I really don't need them...
My capsule wardrobe is coming along very nicely.

Happy New Year! 
xx N

Tuesday, December 20, 2016

It is all in the planning...

I have a High Tea to attend in January.
I need a new dress.
My #1 Posh Frock needs work (skirt removed, waist lifted, new darts sewn)
My #2 Posh Frock is packed to be re-homed.  

I was going to alter my #Posh Frock like a good little Barbara but my Jed is no Tom.

'Why don't you make a new one'?

So, Lovelies, what do we think?

While pursuing Style Arc (lovely patterns) I found this. Zara was very enthusiastic.
Image from Pinterest
With length, obviously, and I don't think I will need the jacket in January but I may later...
I will probably use this pattern as I can put all my measurements in and get a better fit.
#5166 Lekala
I purchased this from eBay.

What do think? Mutton dressed as lamb or can I pull it off?

xx N

Sunday, December 18, 2016

Woven Hudson Pants (or would that be trousers)?

So, earlier this year I made some denim Hudson pants
According to my Stylebook App they are my second most worn item.
Only second to my gold hoop earrings.
So I made another pair.
Now, it is to be remembered the Hudson Pants are meant to be sewn in a knit, not a woven.
The cotton sateen I used is quite stretchy but I sized up by at least 3 sizes.
I used the polo collar trick for the pocket edge again and also lined the pockets with modal knit for a smooth finish.
The cuffs are ribbing.
The tie is completely faux.
I used a double row of elastic, very comfortable around the tummy with more 'give' then a single, wider row.
The have a nice fit at the rear, no mum-bum.
They are very comfortable and as easy to wear as track pants.

~My Verdict~
I really like these trousers. As much as I would like to dress up, every day, it is not going to happen. I do think these look nearly as tidy as jeans with the comfort factor being a very nice bonus.
I wear my denim ones so frequently I have cut another pair in pale denim.
I look forward to sewing them in knit, as a slim pair or track pants.

Thanks for reading and apologies for the plethora of posts.

Saturday, December 17, 2016

Burda 6769 A Skirt in the Making

I needed a skirt in my wardrobe capsule, actually two, a black and a denim.

I knew what I wanted, a slim fit, pegged hem but I had to be able to walk quickly, squat and be comfortable in it.

It also needed to be able to be dressed up or down.

My research found me Burda 6769
After reading quite a few reviews I knew it was going to need some work so I made a muslin AND  then a practice skirt before using my precious coated denim.
I made a calico muslin, seams on the outside and Zara helped me tweak it a lot!
This was more design choice then pattern style, I wanted the skirt very shaped at the hem.
I went with the 38, as per my hips but as usual my tummy needed the room but I pinched a lot from the back.
The original and my calico muslin 
Once my calico muslin fits I unpick that and use it as my pattern.
You can see the shape I added to the sides.
I had some stretch cotton sateen leftover from my Hudson's (yet to be blogged) so I made a trial run in that.
Actually, I cut it at the same time and got my Hudson's and this skirt from 2m of 150cm wide cloth, $4/m from Eliza's of Sunshine.
I added back pockets (I used the Ginger jeans ones as they have a nice curved edge).
I seem to have a bit of 'poof' going on over my backside, may need further FAA (flat arse adjustment) or I may have just stretched it a bit when sewing.
I will see how it goes.
And this is why we sew our clothes.
Lots of room for my tummy, one nice flat bum accounted for.
I rarely tuck so this is the view the hoi polloi are going to see.
And I love it!

~My Verdict~
I love it.
I think my trial run is very successful and it has nicely incorporated into my capsule.
I could only sew this is a very stretchy fabric, it needs that extra ease, that said this is a casual going out type skirt. I comfortably squatted on the floor to pick up my twin cousins without any problems.
The PDF pattern was fine, not O+S but fine. NO SEAM ALLOWANCE, my first muslin fit Liddy. The instructions were pretty good, for Burda.
I have a black coated denim and blue denim (which I will distress eek)! on my to do list. 

Thanks for reading!
xx N

A Farewell Woodland Stroll Cape

Our school is losing a very fine teacher to Canada, next year.
But I am sure her 'swop' will be just as excellent and we will make them welcome.
Liddy wanted me to make her something. I was bit nervous, she is a tiny wee lady with a big bust, not easy to 'guess make' something for.
And then Liddy wore her cape to school and Mrs Schilling declared she wanted one, exactly the same.
Luckily, the Liesl+Co Woodland cape, made that possible.
We decided a dark charcoal button would look a bit more grown up but, otherwise, just the same.
I sewed the 16, due to her bust size, I hope it doesn't swamp her too much. It was too big for me but I have terribly narrow shoulders and my bust puts me in the 10... fingers crossed.
I used a heavy, stretch, satin backed crepe, reversed, for the lining.
With a garment like this the lining makes it, so it is worth choosing carefully. 
I was extremely fussy with my clipping and pressing. After I pressed a seam I Clover Clipped it in place until it was cool. To make sure everything stayed where it should I 'stitched in the ditch' in several places along the seams.

A very good PDF, which is good seeing as I have now bought
 the bloody thing three times!
I purchased it when first released, didn't print it. It was released under new packaging and I bought it again, stupidly, thinking it was a different one but did print it.
I got the neatly stored but not put together printed copy out... to find out only half of it had printed.
No worries, I will just download it again from my account at O+S. Nope, cannot log in.
So, purchased, downloaded, printed, glued, packed AND the PDF is now in Dropbox, just in case.
Lesson learned. 

I wil make one of these for me, I think it will be perfect for those quick trips outside in Winter.
And I want one
And I have to make the pattern worthwhile...

I hope Mrs Schilling finds it useful on the plane, or in Canada in Spring...

xx N