Thursday, April 17, 2014

A Cappuccino with some Mods

I made myself the new Cappuccino tunic 
With a few mods,
To allow for my 19 week bump.
I added a inch or so to the middle panel and  some length and shape.
A simple adjustment.
To make a beautiful, wearable top.
I used a luscious wool/modal knit with a m a z i n g drape.
The size 10 with 1 1/2 '' FBA was perfect with the knit.
If I used a woven I would size up to a 12.
And I think I have some growth room.

Full sewing tute in the works!

xx N

Wednesday, April 16, 2014

Sunki for Liddy

Lidia chose some very special fabric from The Drapery.
My new house rules are to sew what you buy before you buy some more.
Liddy was not arguing.
She wanted a Sunki by Figgys 
The problem was we only purchased a metre.
So I had a fiddle.
By narrowing the sleeves by an inch and removing the pleats.
I just squeaked it out.
I gathered the sleeve cap and set in the sleeve after sewing the side seams.
As I had narrowed the sleeve, I fitted the dress on Lid's after setting in the pockets and zipper.
I tapered the bodice by 3/4'' at the arms and took that out to a scant 1cm at the hem.
It gives the tunic an A-line look.
I went with an invisible zipper as I had the perfect colour.
Lidia chose some grey marl knit for matching Sunki leggings.
Cute fabric, Cute Pattern for a Cute Girlie 
What more could you want?
xx N

Sunday, April 13, 2014

Gift Sewing

I have got quite selfish and really scaled back on sewing as gifts.
But who can resist sewing for little girls?
First up, a Tea Party dress by Oliver+S 
I used the very last of my Cloud 9 Maman print for the bodice.
Its all gone now.
For the skirt I used some pretty caramel coloured poplin from Spotters.
The lace was sent to me from my sweet friend Claire , she found it for me in Hong Kong.
How lucky am I?
I sewed the hem with lots of rows of stitching. Knock off from the Family Reunion dress 

As usual I lined the skirt to give it a clean finish.
I can't wait to see it on Baby Charlotte.
My great-niece Amaya was turning one so I thought a PlayTime dress would be fun.
As she is quite a solid wee girl and the last two dresses I made didn't fit I made the size 2T tunic but to be worn as a dress.
I hope it fits.
If it doesn't her Mummy could always flog it on Ebay. The Tula Pink fabric the Twins chose is evidently quite rare 
Who knew? (Thanks for the heads up Virginia, the other metre is going back into storage)
As the sleeves were quite long I sewed a deep hem at the cuff and folded them back.
I used a pink velvet ribbon at the waist and some lilac flower buttons.
If you would like to make your own little dress, I have a full tute here 

I wish I had time to sew more presents.
Do you make many gifts?

xx N

Thursday, April 10, 2014

PlayTime Dress-A Tutorial

Oliver+S PlayTime dress
Cute, right?
Would you like to make one?
You wish is my command.
Interface the neck facings.
Pin the shoulder seams matching the notches.
Sew the seams and press them open.
Neaten the outside edge of the facing.
If you use size and naming labels, attach them now.
Stay stitch the necklines.
Start at the shoulders and sew towards the middle.
Pin the back bodice pieces to the front at the shoulder seams matching notches.
Sew, press and neaten and then press the seam to the back bodice.
This finish is fine for a light to medium fabric. I really wish I had finished the edges first and then pressed the seam open. It was a bit bulky in the linen/cotton mix I used.
Flip the bodice and topstitch if you wish!
Pin the facing to the bodice, right sides together, matching notches and shoulder seams.
Sew together.
When you reach the shoulder seam, consider reversing a few times. This will strengthen this seam when it is trimmed.
Trim the seam and cut the corners.
I wish I had notched the curves, I will next time.
As directed, press the seams towards the facing from the right side of the garment. This works so well!
Turn the facing to the inside and gently push the corners out.
Finger press the neck line.
I was really unhappy with the shoulder seam bulk I had. My fault for not doing an open seam. I had to use discipline to get rid of the lumps.
Gently pull the facing from the bodice and under stitch the seam allowance to the neck facing, as far as you can, on either side.
Even though I am going to stitch the faux collar I decided to machine stitch may facings in place.
Press well.
Pre fold and press the sleeve seam as directed in the pattern.
Gather the shoulders of the sleeves.
Matching the notch to the shoulder seam ease and pin the sleeve in place.
Sew, check for tucks, press, trim, neaten and press again.
Press the seam towards the sleeve.
Give this a good steamy press and let cool.
Press again from the right side and remove any visible stitches.
Press again and let cool.
Unfold the pre-pressed hem and pin the arm and side bodice right sides together, matching notches and underarm seam.
Sew, press, trim the seam and notch the underarm curve.
This will help with ease when being worn.
Neaten the seam, the notches will be neatened too but still allow ease.
Press well.
Re-fold the hem.
You may need to press the hem again.
Pin the hem in place.
Pull the dress through to the right side to sew.
Press the seam.
If you sew on the inside of the hem it will be easier.
I did two rows.
As directed make the button holes now.
Would you like some tips?
After you have made the button holes match the notches and baste the centre backs, one over the other.

Apply an inch wide strip of interfacing on two of the pocket bags.
As the skirt panels are the same I marked my front one.
Pin the pocket bags to the skirt panel matching the notches.
I notched where the dots were marked.
Sew the seam with a narrow seam as directed.
Neaten this bit only, a zigzag will do.
Press the pocket away from the skirt.
Repeat for the other pockets 
Pin a skirt front to a skirt back, matching notches and pocket bags.
It can be helpful to draw the seam allowance before sewing.
After sewing, clip into the marked notch.

Neaten the edges.
The notches will open up a little and make this step easier.
Press the seam towards the front skirt.
The bodice seam should be pressed towards the back. This will stagger the seams and lock them together 
Press the skirt well from the right side.
Pin the pocket to the front skirt panel and stitch it  from the wrong side.
Press well.
Sew a narrow turning guide at the hem.
Press it up.
Turn up the hem again by an inch 
I went with two rows.
Gather the skirt front and the skirt back, separately, with two rows of gathering stitches.
Pin the skirt to the bodice, making sure you pin the front skirt to the front bodice.
Match the notches and side seams.
Pull up the gathering threads to fit and knot the ends so that you can safety ease the threads.
Ready to sew.
Sew the skirt to the bodice.
Check for tucks, press and neaten the seam.
Press the seam towards the bodice.
If the back seam is a bit bulky try a bit of discipline.
Topstitch the waist seam.
Remove all the visible stitching.
If you wish, transfer the collar markings.
Stitch over the markings.
And there you are!
Practical pockets-perfect for teddies.
We think so.

xx N