Perfectly Peridot

It can be quite hard to find a neat trouser/slacks/pants pattern for girls,especially skinny girls.
I think these fit the bill.

They are the Peridot pants by Clever Charlotte.
I made them last year for Lidia.

So sweet!

So elegant.
I really want to show you these as I think they are pretty quick to make once you know what you are doing!
And,as I was making Lid's a much desired black pair I decided to take a few(well 72 actually)pictures.
Its a long one so I may split it in two.
The tutorial not the trousers...oh dear,oh dear,oh dear.

I made Liddy a pair in size 5 width and a size 7 length.

Before you start pre-neaten the  leg seams of the pants pieces.

Apply interfacing to to one side of the waistband pieces.
If you choose to use a lighter contrast fabric for the lining you may wish to interface both the front and lining waistband pieces.

Cut the two lengths of elastic loop tape.
Six loops are required on each piece.

Fold the front tabs in half lengthwise.

Neaten the edges.

Pin the front tab to the front leg matching the edge of the tab to the notch.
The tab will finish perfectly with the hem of the trousers.

Sew in place and then clip to the sewn seam above the front tab.
At the notch.

Press the seam allowances back towards the trouser leg.

Flip the leg over and roll the seam under your fingers to smooth it and the press well.

Rinse and repeat!

Following the pattern instructions measure and mark the placement for the elastic loop tape on the right side of the back leg.
You should have six loops.
Mark the stitching line and pin the loop tape in place.

Baste in place.
The loop tape can slip a little,hold it down if you need to and stitch slowly.

Press well from the wrong side.

Neaten the edges of the back tab.

Pin the back tab to the back leg, right sides together.
The loop tape will be sandwiched between the two.
The back tab will match the notch of the back leg.

Stitch in place and clip at the notch to the stitching line.

Fold the back tab to the inside wrong side together and roll the seam under your fingers.

Finger press and then iron well.
Avoid touching the elastic loops with the iron.

Following the instructions pin the right outer leg together from the zipper notch to the tab notches.

Sew and press the seam open.

Position the tabs, tucking the front tab underneath the back tab.
Check this from the right side.

I was worried there may be a strength issue here.

I decided to fuse a neat rectangle of interfacing over the seams.

Flip the trouser leg over to the right side and following the instructions, mark the stitching lines and pin the back flap over the front flap.

Stitching through both layers sew to the point marked by the pin.

Open the flaps and pull the front flap away from the back flap.
Topstitch the outer back leg to the back flap.
(Catching it underneath).

Press well.

I chose to mark this spot.

And sew a bartack, these are to be play clothes and I wanted them sturdy!

The interfacing keeps things neat and offers a little extra strength.
Repeat with the other leg but this time from the waistband to the tab opening.

Pin and sew the inside leg.

Press the seams, turn and press again.

Put one leg inside the other, right sides together.

Pin the crotch seam, matching notches.

Sew the seam.
I like to reverse over the centre seam a few times and then stitch a second row of stitching close to the first.

Press the seam and clip the curves.

Neaten the seam.
If you overlock over the notches they will be finished but still give ease.

Press the seams to one side.

Take the opportunity to press this seam really well.

The end of the ironing board is very useful.

That will do for now!
Back soon with part two.

T'rrific Trousers

Hugo was next(this year I am sewing for each member of the family on a rota system)
And he needs trousers!
At least another 5 pairs yet-sigh
My heart longs for pretty wee dresses.....

Any hoo,back to Hugo.

Trousers,yes.
I am still quite new to mens sewing and I made my first mistake upon cutting out.
When one sews mens clothes one goes by the chest measurement.
Hugo wears a 32 waist trousers so I cut the 32.
As I was basting in the pleats they were looking very small,so I checked them against Hugo's Sketchbook shorts.
Whoa baby,much too small.

So I checked the chart,bugger,if the chest is 32'' the trousers will be a 26''!

Luckily,the style has two large pleats in the front and by reducing those I could gain some ease and I just cut a new waistband.

Saved!
And before you offer tea&sympathy,I did the same thing last year-and completely forgot.
I even put a note in the pattern package prompting me to check Hugo's waist-I disregarded it.
The fact that I had been arguing with Jed and 'cutting angry' may have had something to do with it....

The pattern I chose didn't have a fly facing. I like using heavy metal jeans zippers(ouch)so I added my own.

Hugo is hard on his trousers so I added a double knee panel.
Super easy.

I love sewing for my beamish boy but boys basics are bog dull!
Using a beautiful Japanese lawn for the fly guard made things a bit more fun.

Using the same lawn for one side of the pocket bag was both pleasing and useful.
Both sides cord would have made for a grippy pocket.

The finished trouser was large enough that I brought in the back with elastic. This is a good thing as this young man is a-growing!

Room to grow.

Looking sharp.

A photo for Deb.

Next? A black pair,but fitted,for best.

xx N

Polo top is KwikSew 1242 .