Thursday, January 2, 2014

Getting all Continental part one

Lisette Continental blouse
Just before the end of last year I made this blouse for myself.
I have made it before as a straight size 14 but I ended going back and altering the shoulder seam.
I have worn this top a lot but I do find I have a bit of shoulder restriction.
After having a think I realised I keep sizing up because of my weight gain.
But my weight goes on waist not my shoulders!
I used to be tiny, sigh.....

Therefore, I need to sew for an overweight size 10, not a fit size 14!
I mentioned on the oliver+s forum that I had fiddled with the pattern and I received a sweet request to share what I did.
As I needed to redraft the pattern anyway I was only to happy to oblige.

 Measuring across my back, between my shoulders, I determined the size 8 gave me the best shoulder fit.
I still very much needed the size 14 for boobage so I folded the pattern back to just above the bust line.
I also found I could do with a little more ease at the tummy area so I gradually shaped out from under the bust dart.
Even though I am not tall, I do find I need to add length to the Lisette tops, as a rule.
Here you can see my redrafted pattern overlaid the original pattern.

And here the original over my modified piece.
I repeated the action with the back panel.
Again, I added to the side seam and the hem.
The re-drafted pattern piece.
The re-shaped shoulder seam.
Now I needed all the width oh the sleeve for my 'bingo wings' but I found the sleeve was a lot pouffier then I wanted.
So, again, I folded the sleeve cap back to a size 8 and eased it out to the size 14.
The re-drafted sleeve cap.
I decided to add a wee bit of length but taper the sleeve just a tad.
Finally, have you seen this version? Swoon.
I added a little extra to my back panel for a little more gather.
And there you have it Sharon and Fee.
A post, just for you!
(But if it is helpful to anyone else you are most welcome)

xx N

Next up, Sewing the Continental!


  1. Replies
    1. Thank you V.
      I am not so fond of t-shirts, I get hot, and I burn (and I am anti sunblock over use) so I really need long sleeves all year 'round.

      This blouse fits beautifully now, but I can still work in it with good arm movement.

      I am very happy I took the time to alter it.
      xx N

  2. Well, you're not alone! I used to be tiny too! :-) Have you tried going with your upper bust measurement and then doing an FBA? I think that this is the adjustment I need, since I have very large bosoms, in addition to the pudge around the waist. But my shoulders, like yours, are actually quite petite.

    1. I don't really mind getting bigger Inder, I have 5 beautiful children and I exercise more now then I did in my 20's. (And I eat better)

      I tried a FBA once, at a class, and ended up with two much fullness. I should try again with the Liesl and Co patterns.

      The bust of a size 14 works nicely for me, the bust darts fit well it just pulls at my waist and too much fabric at my shoulders.

      But I will try again, you are giving me some great advice, thank you Sweetheart!
      xx N

  3. You are quite simply, brilliant. Does it fit better? Are you up to releasing a modelled shot?

  4. Thank you Katy.
    It fit so so well I want to make another (5) straight away but its not my turn.

    There will photos, I just need to get my roots done (he he)

    xx N

  5. I love it! I have the same problem with all of the lisette patterns. The shoulders get restrictive because they are too large/wide. I'm looking forward to a modeled shot as well!

  6. MC, I kept sizing up thinking it would give me more room. I was hanging out washing one day wearing a xl shirt and complaining to Jed that I couldn't move my arms and he pointed out how low the shoulder seams were hanging down my arms.

    It was so obvious but I was missing it.

    This took so little time to adjust and now I have a go to pattern.

    xx N